Popayán

Juicy flavours of tangerine and stone-fruits combine with caramel and a hint of cacao nibs, with sugar cane in the finish.

Located in the Cauca department of southwestern Colombia, the Meseta de Popayán sits nestled between the Western and Central ranges of the Andes at 1,700 to 2,000 metres above sea level. The surrounding mountain ranges act as a natural buffer – keeping temperatures steady between 14 and 29°C year-round, humidity around 75%, and creating a gradual growing season that allows sugars to build slowly and thoroughly. The result is a coffee that's bright and clean, with that signature Cauca sweetness baked in.

This coffee comes to us through Cofinet, a Colombian importer who've been running the Popayán Reserve project since 2015. They work closely with around 75 smallholder farmers in the region, most growing on plots of less than five hectares. Cherries are milled at Cofinet's Meseta de Popayán facility, where processing and quality control are handled centrally. In return, farmers can earn premiums of up to 20% above market price – tied directly to cup quality, so the incentive to bring in the best cherries runs deep. Cofinet also sends agronomists to work with individual producers directly, and invites farmers to cup their own coffees. The latter might sound like an obvious step, but producers delivering to mills often never taste their own work. These cuppings change that.

The varieties here – Colombia, Castillo, Caturra, Catimor, and Typica – tell a distinctly Colombian story. Castillo and the Colombia variety are sometimes met with a raised eyebrow in specialty circles; both are rust-resistant hybrids developed by Cenicafé, Colombia's national coffee research centre, and have historically been associated with commodity rather than specialty production. Grown at this altitude, and with this level of care behind them, that reputation doesn't hold. Caturra and Typica contribute brightness and clarity; Castillo and the Colombia variety add body and structure. Together, they make a cup that's more interesting than any one of them would be alone. A washed process keeps things clean and transparent, letting the terroir speak clearly.

One small thing worth knowing: Cauca experiences drier conditions in the middle of the year and more rainfall at the start and end. Since coffee is harvested throughout the year across the region, there can be minor variations in moisture content in the green coffee between lots. Nothing that affects the cup meaningfully – but worth a mention if you're a bit of a coffee nerd about these things.

• Country: Colombia
• Department: Cauca
• Town: Popayán
• Varieties: Colombia, Castillo, Caturra, Catimor and Typica
• Processing Method: Washed
• Crop Year: 2025
• No. of contributing producers: ~75 smallholders
• Average farm size: Under 5 hectares
• Altitude: 1,700 - 2,000 metres above sea level
• Mill: Meseta de Popayán