Mexico Red 5 de Diciembre San Isidro Zoquiapam

A few things about coffee from Mexico, generally. The profiles that you find are not bombastic, or particularly unique. The varietals we’re dealing with here—bourbon, caturra—are known for their brown-toned sweetness and structure, with typica and mondo novo (a cross between red bourbon and typica) adding a bit of lift and flair. Sure, we like coffee that’s a little wild—or even weird—just as much as the next person. (Well, that might not be completely true. All things in moderation, I guess.)  But what really gets our motors purring are coffees that are balanced and nuanced and complex in a quiet, understated, confident way. I mean, the doofus driving the jacked up coal roller with all the frayed flags is pretty easy to understand. You don’t really need to measure decibles or tire size to understand what he’s about (or what he’s compensating for).  But the commuter going just over the speed limit in the nine year old Honda Civic? You’d have to have a conversation with her to figure her out, and you might end up coming to the conclusion that she’s one of the more interesting people you’ve talked to all year.

Mexico Red 5 is a conversational coffee, to be sure. The dry fragrance is very sweet and toasty. Think graham, or blonde brownie. It’s more brown sugar-like than chocolatey, I think. There’s also a dark fruit lurking in the background—maybe fig jam, or even molasses–along with a lighter, orange-like accent as well.

Add hot water, and the wet aromatics whisper a little more lift, with orange and mild tropicals peeking through the toasty sweetness. But in the brewed coffee itself, these brighter components seem to result in more structure than flavor: that is, the acidity provides the toasty brown sweetness with cleanliness, assuring the cup is more crispy than clunky.

All in all, it’s a delicious, crowd pleasing cup that seems a perfect remedy to these cold fall mornings.

• Location: San Isidro Zoquiapam, La Canada, Chiapas
• Elevation: 1700 MASL
• Varietal: caturra, bourbon, typica, mondo novo
• Process: washed and patio dried